Confession: until today I have never been to Ilam. I have been many, many places in the Peak District, but the often photographed and filmed stepping stones were not among them. Why? Well, frankly, its a long drive, and the popularity put me off. I don't do crowds in out door spaces. Most people are lovely but some people are twats, and litter, pester the dog, think they know my business, and park really inconsiderately (often to avoid paying). Hence, you rarely see me on Mam Tor on a sunny weekend; too many twats. To clarify, I never mind being asked for directions from people who are trying to be sensible, or who want to discuss a point of interest. In fact, I had multiple lovely conversations today, but we are getting side tracked.
I nearly didn't go to Ilam on the day as it is now school holidays and I had images of getting there and not being able to park, or being stuck in queues of traffic. But I took the 'if not now, when?' school of thought, and decided to head over first thing. I arrived about 9:30 to plenty of parking spaces in the NT car park (the road slots were taken but I had planned on using the NT one) and a lessening of very faint drizzle that had been about as I left Manchester. After a bit of a fight with the parking machine, I latched Oscar dog on his harness and went off to find the start point....(which was harder than anticipated due to a large wall being in the way).
It was about then I realised the map wasn't opening. I have an old phone and it gets confused sometimes. Fortunately, its possible to use a strava track and upload that, but it did mean no beeps to confirm I was in the right place, and I was actually going to have to pay attention to the control descriptors and get right on them (rather than just close enough to beep which is about 5 meters).
Off we went through the grassy start field past some very startled sheep. We then came round past the grand front gate through the pretty but small village of Ilam and over an old stone bridge. It was very idyllic and at this time reasonably quiet. Once over the bridge I had planned on a flattish loop collecting a number of controls before heading in to Dove Dale.... but as the path pulled away from the river and in to some trees, our path was blocked by a downed oak tree, and no real way around it. The next control wasn't far the other side but there wasn't really a way around or through. So I made a quick decision we would just have to run back on ourselves; sometimes you just need to be decisive.
So back to the pretty village and out the route most people take towards Dovedale, via a large coach that was stuck on the bridge unable to take the corner on the other side. The Peaks in summer.... complete log jam.
The path on one side of the dale is incredibly well made. But it is also busy and the next point was across a small bridge so I cross the bridge and ran on what was not really a path on the other side. This would have been easier if my dog wasn't pulling to get in to the river, upsetting my balance on the rocks. I made it along the sectio to the stepping stones (which I was now on the correct side of) with no broken ankle and only a slightly damp foot.
And now we were running along the beautiful dale with its high cliff sides on a good path. There were a few people but plenty of room to pass. It was stunning. The river was beautiful and the dale meanders, so that you get a new view as you round bends. There was a climb up to a knoll (and a control) and then down the other side. We passed caves and then to the famous Ilam rock. I made a good decision to leave the dale here and climb out the side....but heck it was a climb! Pestered by flies and working hard, it had only looked a short distance on the map but the steepness made me really work!
Breaching the top I joined a narrow path and with my dog still misbehaving we wobbled through the trees to eventually pop out in a grassy meadow typical of the limestone of the white peak. We followed a path as it weaved around some trees, around a farm and took a weird circumtuitous route before climbing to the crest of the hill next to a barn. I was aware of time at this point but not knowing the area, and starting to feel the fatigue, I knew I had to be heading back. We did the long descent around Bunster hill, passing a few groups with kids coming the other way (kudos, it was a long steep climb). Then it was across some more fields to reach the road that would take us down towards the village....
Oscar was definitely flagging as we headed in to the village. I don't love running on the roads with him but it was the most sensible route in, and again, being decisive, I decided we would swing out and enter the estate from the side, picking up the river. Oscar was dragging now and I felt terrible. I never like to push my dog. But when we reached the river path, he picked up. Perhaps he just hated to road?
Coming on to the estate again, there were suddenly a few more people, but it was manageable. I decided to gamble on getting a last control by Ilam cross so we ran along the path, which is well made and broad enough to pass. After the cross its a steep ramp up to the gardens where suddenly it was hard to work out how to get back out to the pond. Small path on the map went everywhere but bits were closed off for children's play for the summer! Were we going to be over time having gotten this close. Then I saw a man go through a gate and realised that was the way I wanted too. We dashed across the sheep field towards the finish, me pushing my legs and Oscar with his tongue lolling out. We just made it!
We spent the next few hours recovering in the lovely grounds, including a trip to the cafe (not dog friendly and watch the wasps). If you have kids, there were so many activities set out it was unbelievable. Oscar got his swim in the river at multiple points. I was supposed to do some extra miles but I realised I was just too exhausted so instead enjoyed my day out.
White Peak is such a joy to run when its dry with its grassy meadows, steep dales and large limestone outcrops. Thanks again to Peak Raid for the Anytime series getting me out to explore new places.
PS The strava track worked, and due to actually paying a bit more attention, I had hit every point I intended!




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