'Lake Windermere is 10 miles long...' is how the guided section of the Windermere cruises boat starts. Listening to this having run nearly 19 miles to catch said boat, there was something slightly ironic about hearing it (twice, as we had to take two boats). This adventure started when my friend Eryl and I both clocked a route called the Windermere challenge in the back of Trail running magazine. However, acknowledging it was the busiest summer the lakes had ever seen, and that our rotas didn't match for the next few months, we postponed the attempt to October and the week of my birthday. By the time it came round, there was a lot to catch up on. I was super nervous about the prospect of running nearly 20 miles, especially when the forecast was not looking so good, but I knew Eryl really wanted to do it. She is also a much faster runner than me which makes me even more anxious. Oh, and I had a kit phaff, but mostly due to lack of practice.
It was an early start, especially for poor Eryl as she drove to mine first. We wanted to be running by 9, as we were worried about making the last boat (this turned out to be completely unfounded fear). Parking up in the main Ambleside car park, it was very grey and only really just light. There was definitely drizzle and the cloud obscured the usual views. We kitted up and used the loo. Time to trot.
The route in the magazine starts at the back of Rothay park and fortunately I knew how to get there. Eryl's watch was set to do most of the navigating (she has a posh watch that has all the route on it) so this was my very limited contribution. The streets were quiet but not empty and we jogged down to the park, before the school shuts its gate which makes it easier. At the bottom of Loughrigg we turned to look across to where the Fairfield horseshoe should have been but it was completely obscured by cloud. It could be a very long, wet day......
Weirdly, despite having Loughrigg a lot of times, I never go up this way, and had never done the bridleway route over the south side of the hill. I said to Eryl I was going to start by walking the hills, as I just didn't know how much energy I could expend. She seemed happy with this and we headed up the hill, jogging the flats and downs, and walking the ups. The bridleway is good under foot, with a few puddles but nothing technical, and this was the theme for most of the route (until we hit the lake shore towards the end). The views were limited but the low cloud occasionally created lovely scapes of the trees sticking out on the surrounding hills. There weren't many people about, another theme for the run, though we did see a very soggy DofE group near the beginning. In the fog, I missed Loughrigg tarn on the descent and we ended up on the roads towards the bottom of the hill. First (and smallest) of the main hills done, but what soon became apparent was that we had a chunk of road to do now, some of which was quite fast.
On the road we arrived at Skelwith Bridge. We passed Chesters by the river, and sadly didn't stop. We started to wind up the Coniston road, which was quite fast and not an enjoyable section. The cars came past quite fast, and the road bends a lot. There wasn't loads of traffic but it wasn't exactly classic trail running. We were glad to hit the bridleway off over the side of Park fell. Looking back, I wonder why the route didn't jump on the Cumbria way here, and miss a bit more of this road and go a bit lower around the fell towards Tarn Hows. I'd probably change this if I did it again.
On this bridleway it was a bit damp in places but generally okay underfoot. A bit damp did eventually give way to path bring a stream, but it was good under that so all good. We were walking up and jogging down but Eryl was a bit anxious about the pace so I made an effort to run a bit more. Thank goodness for Outdoor Provision bars....Eryl's anxiety was not helped when the path across high Arnside farm was closed and we had to divert over Iron Keld. It didn't really add much distance, but maybe a touch of elevation. Sadly there were no views of Tarn Hows but it was nice running. We dropped on to the green road down to Knipe Fold and got a bit more of a jog on Eventually we were back on road again, but quieter roads and, not for as long. As we approached Hawkshead there was bit of a busier section of road and then as we turned off, the world's largest puddle which involved some hedge hugging. Fortunately, we were soon back on a green lane and after a brief bit of steeper road, we joined the bridleway that took us over the the lower slopes of Latterbarrow, our longest climb of the day.
Some of this section was forestry commision and some of it was a bit narrower but generally it was good and not too steep. We found some amazing mushrooms here, some of which were very large. We plodded up the hill and chatted. I managed a bit of running on the flatter sections but soon we were pointing down hill, on a good forestry track.. We passed some tarns in the mist and at times. We couldn't really see Lake Windermere yet. We stopped for about 5 minutes at Moss Eccles Tarn, which in the sunshine would be a lovely spot for a picnic. However, the rain was blowing sideway so we moved on fairly quickly. As we dropped towards Far Sawrey we saw a few more people, but it certainly wasn't busy as I imagine it would be in summer.
At Far Sawrey we rejoined road and could finally see the Lake. On the road we dropped down to the the height of the lake shore and finally joined the lake side path with still a fair few miles to go. The first section of lakeside path was really good running with only occasional tree roots. The far side of the Lake was visible but hard to pick out exactly which buidling were which. I took my jacket off on this path as we were out the wind, and at some point it stopped raining (temporarily). I had sweated a lot in my jacket and putting it (wet) into my back was an error as I was using my OMM rucksack and the main compartment had everything in, so everything ended up a bit more damp than before. I needs some more dry bags.....
The next road section was punctuated with the sound of shooting. We could see a lot of pheasants so I assume that was what they were shooting. The woods either side of the road were marked private, and it brought home the truth that the shore line of England's longest lake is most inaccessible private land., though I must go run the section between Wray and the ferry to take advantage of the sections we can access. We nearly missed the narrow footpath that took us back to the lakeshore. This was the first real single track of the whole route and wiggled through the woods down to a boat house. The section along the lake here was much narrower and rootier than before. It took us around some sections of private land. My legs were starting to feel it a bit so I wasn't particularly agile but we pottered through until we reached a gate marked private.
The route from the magazine suggested the path continued long the shore at this point, around the YMCA ground but it was quite apparent this was not the case. The YMCA site is large and not open for the public, certainly not during term time. Fortunately we used OS maps to re route slightly on to the road, possibly not all on official footpath but it was quite hard to tell due to the leaf fall. Sadly, arriving at the road marked the end of the 'trail' part of our adventure. The next section was road for a few miles, especially as the possible paths across Stott Park had been closed off and seemingly permission applied to change their access (likely not for the better though we didn't stop to read the full application).
One nice thing about road is at least you make progress. My calves were getting a bit sore, and I was aware my pace was still quite slow for Eryl. We kept having to weave from side to side to go round corners without being mown down, and I don't think this section would have been that safe in the height of summer with busier roads. the highlight was going past the bobbin mill, which was sadly closed. It was also really raining. We saw a sign Lakeside 1/4 of a mile and realised we were actually really close. Lake side isn't a big place, so once we were in the village we were soon turning in to the car park for the ferry. My watch read something like 18.9 and Eryl mentioned rounding it up to 20 but I don't think she was that serious (I hope).
There were more people than we had seen all day milling around the aquarium and the car park and the platform and dock. We bought tickets from the the lady at the kiosk and I proudly told her what we had done and she was pleasantly pleased for us. Then we made a dash for the toilets to put on dry layers before the boat. I removed my sopping top and replaced it with a fleecey midlayer I had brought. It had got a little damp in my rucksack but it was definitely an improvement. I toyed with the idea of stripping my leggings but my new Ultimate direction waterproof trousers are a bit lighter weight and I wasn't sure if they were see through so I just shoved them on the top. A dry-ish headband and gloves which had definitely taken on water completed my rather bedraggled look.
The steam train arrived as I was changing and suddenly there were people everywhere. I forewent my cup of tea, which later turned out to be a mistake as they weren't serving on the boat. We last about 10 minutes on the deck of the first boat before taking refuge in the warmer drier lower deck. People were giving us a wide berth, possibly due to the smell of damp runner. Most people were not in real walking gear, though there were a few. It made me feel a bit more like an adventurer anyway. At Bowness, the kind crew let us stay in the warm as they changed over as the boat was going to continue to Ambleside. For this I was grateful as the rain was starting to really come down and I was a bit bored of being wet now. Eryl was also going a bit quiet as she was cold and I think a bit hungry. We took turned to dry bits of limbs in front of the warm air vent.
Arriving in Ambleside I made a bee line for the YHA. It is close to the dock and the food is reasonably priced and served with a view and usually a smile. I was hoping they were back open as usual post covid and thank goodness they were. A cup of tea later and suddenly the world felt a warmer place! We both managed to dry off a bit as we ate and revelled in the glory of our long run. It was a miles walk to the car but it was much more manageable now we were warmer and fed.
In the car on the way home, I was quite proud we had done it. I had spent the weekend before thinking of possible contingencies given the bad weather and my complete lack of fitness. We hadn't been fast but we had kept going which was great. I suspect Eryl could have gone faster without me. It had felt like a proper adventure (how can it not be when you get a boat back at the end!?) despite the road sections.
The jury is out about the route. It was easy to follow, mostly good underfoot but there was quite a lot of road. I've mentioned a possible diversion after Skelwith but the other sections of road would be hard to re route around, especially at the end. It is definitely road and trail, not fell. There is little of note in terms of the technical. It isn't a high route either, and I couldn't tell you what the views were like! There were some pretty bits though. I think it is probably a nice bad weather route, but in summer I think it would be difficult with roads and sheer number of people. We certainly had a good day but I worry about what Eryl has her eye on next!