I rarely get the long bank holiday weekends off. This rarely bothers me as usually bank holidays mean over priced accommodation, busy roads and hoards of people in tourist places I might visit. But it’s been a bit of a bad year for holidays in our house (long story) so when both me abs my other half were off for the weekend, and I managed to find so reasonably priced accommodation in Cumbria, we decided to make a break for it…
In my head, I would run, swim and eat nice food. The dog would be walked on some hills and we’d just dodge the crowds. It would be fine.
It didn’t start well. Martin had been on nights so wanted a little sleep before we set out. Whilst disappointing, this was fair but even when he woke up he made no effort to get ready and a massive traffic jam developed out of Manchester leading to a massive argument.
Due to various accidents on the motorway we ended up on ‘the scenic route’ which involves a lot of A roads through the edge of Bowland and the Yorkshire Dales. It was beautiful and we ended up stopping at Barbon for a cup of tea and a cake at the Churchmouse. I had finally let Martin off for being an ungrateful dick given I had organised the whole trip. After the cake we took a lovely walk along a bridle way. Better than a services!
After a quick stop at Penrith for supplies at Booths, it was on to our accommodation. The place we were staying is beautiful but very out the way. It was wonderfully quiet! A quiet night in felt wonderful, just Martin, the dog and I.
The plan the next day had been to go to parkrun but Martin was keen to do some proper hill walking, and to do that we would have to drive in to the Lakes proper and park. Now parking was going to be an issue in the Lakes on Bank Holiday…… in the end we agreed to skip parkrun and head to the upper aira force car park with the aim of doing Great Dodd. We got there for 8:30, and fortunately got parked nice and easily.
The original plan had been for 6 miles up to great Dodd and maybe to extend to Clough Head. But it was gorgeous weather, and there weren’t too many people on the trail (though it wasn’t empty), so we decided to head to Watson Dodd and Stybarrow Dodd, but then Raise looked so easy to get to…. So we carried on and ended up coming down the Glenridding just before Hellvelyn (the crowds were a step too far for me, and Martin was starting to tire). I have wanted to do this ridge for ages as a run so really enjoyed what I hope will be a recce for a future run along the whole range from Clough head to Dollywagon.
The views from up on the range are beautiful each side. Initially, the view of Ullswater is obscured but Gowbarrow, but you get the odd peak as you get higher. Then you get to see over the Thirlmere side and even over to Derwentwater and the surrounding fells. Then as you get closer, Hellvelyn looms ahead. And very easy navigation. It is also part of leg 2 of the Bob Grahma for anyone who knows of such things. It was charmingly unbusy, at least until we got towards Whiteside and Hellvelyn, though Sticks pass seemed a small area of activity , and so also goes on the 'must run sometime' list. We then dropped down the pass with amazing views of Catstyecam above us, and the beck below. The dog was being abit of a turd by this point, and trying to pull me down the steep path, but we got there, and at the bottom of the steep section, he got a dip in a waterfall. Amazingly, we were running out of water despite myself and Martin both carrying a litre and a half (though I was sharing with the dog).
For this reason, we stopped at the pub in Glenridding. Amazingly, we got a table outside though it was next to the bins and smelt of urine, so we made do with some chips and large pints of organge juice and lemonade (a fab combo for those who aren't in to shandy). The little village was heaving and as we retreated down the Ullswater way, it became apparent the Lakes was full to bursting. We hurried past car parks of irrate drivers, people replicating Ibiza on the shore of Ullswater and dragged the dog away from plent of picnics. But as ever, once a reasonable distance along between attractions, it was a bit quieter. The last slog up the hot road took forever and then getting the car out of the overcrowded car park was a challenge. But we had had a lovely walk and the dog looked like he was going to sleep forever, so all in it was a good day. I also relaised I took only three really awful photos , despite amazing views! We ended up having dinner in Uldale, at the Snooty Fox, which is lovely if you are up on the northern edge of the Lakes!
Next day, I dragged Martin out early again as I wanted to get parked in a small car park above Threlkeld to do Blencathra. Martin has been harping on about Blencathra ever since we did Skiddaw. We got the last space in the car park, and made a speedy initial ascent as Oscar had rediscovered his legs and was hemmed in by bracken which kept him focussed on the task in hand, at least initially. I never think I walk that fast, probably as I compare myself to fell runners, but we pulled away from the handful of people in the car park and by the time the bracken ran out, we were walking on our own with wonderful views back over Keswick and over the side of Skiddaw. However, ahead a big bank of cloud was sitting over the summit. I remained optimistic for a cloud free summit as the cloud had burnt off yesterday.
The path up the Blease fell side of Blencathra is good. Our main aim for the day was to avoid Sharp's Edge, and any other approach or descent of Blancathra that would not be dog friendly. Of this we would succeed but the weather definitely did not make this easy. We were encased in cloud from about 600meters, and would stay in it until quite a way down the side. Thank goodness for well trodden paths and navigation skills!
Blencathra is also known as Saddleback due to the pummel like aspects sticking out around the summit. I think it is rather like a crown. In the fog, we didn't really get to appreciate this, and a strong wind whipped up. I managed on good photo below. We pushed on and by the summit had our jackets on against the wind. But we made it!
We had opted to descend via Scales fell. This is a pretty good path too, and the other popular easier walk up the hill. We passed a few more people in the fog now, and despite on navigational error, didn't end up on any edges. Just above Mousthwaite Combe we popped out the clouds and could see the people starting to climb up from Scales.
We hung a right and followed a wall round just before Scales. This allowed us to follow a series of small footpaths back to Threlkeld and the Blease side of the fell. This path was actually quite fun despite on the map looking quite dull. We started among bracken, passing plenty of groups going the other way from the A66 parking spots. Then after Doddick farm it got a bit more exciting with a beautiful waterfall, a small scramble, a mini scree descent, and lots of gills for Oscar to drink from. We wondered back to the car park and ended up in Cockermouth for lunch as it became very apparent heading in to Keswick was a non-starter.
On the way home we slipped in a little trip to Cautley Spout and Sedberg. Though much quieter than the Lakes, there were actually some people in the Howgills on bank holiday Monday, in part I suspect as the day before Sedberg had hosted a sizeable orienteering event. I'd been keen for the event but they don't take dogs so we gave it a miss. This is a part of the world I want to explore more, but for now we just did the gentle walk to the bottom of the waterfall, and back to the car, as I had night shifts to get back to.
I have a couple of Lakeland trails planned for autumn but I am aware I haven't got much Lakeland running done over the last two years. Maybe things will settle down and I can get back to doing these things; fingers crossed!
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